First there was just
Miami Spice, a month-long summer deal where restaurants, through August, offered $23 3-course lunches and $36 3-course dinners. As the economy tanked, the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau extended the original "Summer" Spice, then introduced a "Winter" Spice in January, and now is unveiling "Spring" Spice for the month of May. Coming soon - Posh Spice, Sporty Spice, Scary Spice, Old Spice, and Pickling Spice. With the return of Miami Spice come all the familiar complaints - the food is boring, the service is lousy, and why doesn't every restaurant just lower all their prices (or, stated another way, why aren't restaurants offering their best dishes at these prices)? Even
New Times is joining in the kvatching.
As for the last of these gripes, it just seems silly to me. The concept here is not a particularly novel one. It's the same idea as the "prix fixe" meal that is prevalent throughout Europe - a set menu, often at a more affordable price, which as a consequence generally does not call for some of the more expensive items that may be found elsewhere on the a la carte menu. I don't see why offering a prix fixe option means a restaurant should be offering similar discounts across its whole menu. Just don't expect lobster and foie gras at $36 (though, interestingly, they can be found on some menus).
The other points are more on target but certainly nothing new. The service issue is a common one - management may think it's great to fill up seats even if it's at a lower price point, but waitstaff don't exactly relish the diminished tab on which their tip is calculated. And the food? At some places it's clear they're just going through the motions and making little effort to offer anything other than the cheapest food they can put on the plate. It's usually pretty easy to tell. Their menus almost invariably contain the uninspired trifecta of Atlantic salmon, chicken paillard, and skirt steak - lowest common denominator and lowest food cost. But there are other places that still try to showcase the strengths of their restaurants.
I've plowed through the Spring Spice menus that are available online, and found several meals I'd be happy to try. A couple notes: (1) these are not the full menus from these restuarants, just the items that sounded interesting to me; (2) some of these restaurants I've not tried or not tried any time recently, so these are not recommendations; and (3) the strategy, as always - look for interesting food, and look for places where the Spice menu actually offers a meaningful discount off the regular menu prices (keeping in mind that many places change their menu regularly). So without further ado, here is my potential Spring Spice hit list:
Bourbon SteakTasmanian Sea Trout Crudo
Shaved Baby Fennel, Spring Onions, Capers, DillOrganic Chicken Breast
Crispy Thigh Confit, Truffled Macaroni & Cheese, Caramelized Onion Jusor
New York Steak Pavé
Fingerling Potatoes, Cipollini Onions, Foie Gras Emulsion($10 supplement)
[1]Beignets
Macallan 18 Year Butterscotch PuddingCapital GrillSeafood Bouillabaisse with Corn Cream Amuse (!)
Caesar Salad
10oz. Porcini Crusted Delmonico
with Twelve Year Aged Balsamicor
Seared Tenderloin with Butter Poached Lobster
or
10oz. Kona Crusted Sirloin
with Caramelized Shallot Butter SauceCrème Brulee
China Grill[2]Tuna Oishi
Tuna, crabmeat, sushi rice & wasabi guacamoleCrackling Calamari Salad
lime miso dressingBarbecued Salmon
Chinese mustard sauce & stir fried greensSweet Soy Marinated Skirt Steak
wok sauteed lo mein noodles & tempura shiitake mushroomsWasabi Mashed Potatoes
Chef's Selection of House Desserts
Emeril'sBoudin Croquettas
with Thyme-Creole Mustard Dipping SauceLouisiana Oyster and Tasso Stuffed Quail
with Wilted Baby Spinach and Emeril's Homemade WorcestershireBananas Foster Bread Pudding
with Brown Butter Bourbon SauceMichy'sAsparagus Salad
Benton's smoked ham, mustard vinaigrette, roast peppersor
White Gazpacho
jerez gel, Marcona almonds, Spanish olive oilTruffle Crusted Prime Rib of Beef
potato gratin, roast radishesMichy's bread pudding
chocolate, orange rindNeomi'speas & ham salad
spring greens, pea & herb emulsion, peanut oil, shaved jamonor
truffle ravioli
asparagus ricotta puree, tips, egg mimosapompano
celery root chips, fava bean puree, saffron butter'strawberry shortcake'
grilled olive oil cake, strawberries, chocolate balsamic sauce,
herb-infused whipped creamOla[3]Lobster Ceviche
whole small tail, fresh coconut milk, orange and lime juice,thai chilies, red onions, chives and sage sorbetOysters Rodriguez
lightly fried, served over fufu and creamyhorseradish spinach, served w/ huacatay sauceMar y Tierra
NY Strip w/ smoked chocolate rubserved w/ lobster stuffed ancho chili relleñoRaspado de Pato
Hudson Valley duck breast served over crispy rice,edamame, raisins, pine nuts w/ chayote and tomatillo saladLucuma Mousse
served over macadamia chocolate cookie crumbs, espresso & chocolate saucePacific Timeseafood salad
turks and caicos conch, salmon toro, tobiko caviar, tuna,
roasted pineapplesalt & pepper skate
preserved lemon, green apple risottobaked alaska key west
the classic with a key lime twistPalme d'OrMaine Lobster Bisque "My Way"
Lobster Ravioli & Saffron CapuccinoSeven-Hour Braised Beef Effilochée
Potato Mousseline, Organic Micro Greens, Truffle Vinaigrette"L'accra" Chocolate Mousse Bar
Layered with Caramel Mousseux on a Chocolate Fondant CakePascal's on PonceCreamy Maine Lobster Bisque
with Corn Flan and TarragonBraised Veal Shank
Creamy Polenta, Winter Vegetable Ragout, Braising SauceBittersweet Chocolate Fondant
Vanilly ChantillyRestaurant at the SetaiSoba Shiitake
Warm Mushroom Salad with Soba Noodles, Truffle Vinaigrette,White Truffle Ice CreamLime and Chili Caramelized Pork Belly
Miso Braised Turnips, Kimchee and Roasted PeanutsGula Melaka
Peal Sago, Coconut Milk, Palm Sugar, Mango SorbetTalula[4]Crispy Pork Belly Salad
Avocado, Hearts of Palm, Cherry Tomato, Red Onion,
Citrus-Chile VinaigrettePan Seared Local Catch
Roasted Tomato & Spinach Israeli Cous Cous Risotto, Aged Balsamic,
Lemon-Basil EmulsionCoffee-Bittersweet Dark Chocolate Bread Pudding
Dried Cherry Caramel, Spiced Sweet Cream Have you had any good (or bad) "Spring Spice" experiences yet?
Several weeks ago I listed the nominees in the media and journalism categories for the James Beard Awards, with links to the nominees' writings in Part I, Part II, and Part III here. The winners have now been announced and you can see the list here, so I won't regurgitate it all over again. Just a couple thoughts: